The next hearing in the ongoing tax trial of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana is scheduled for April 10. The new date was set after a scheduled hearing today was cancelled. Judge Antonella Brambilla did not make it to the Milan courthouse due to a death in the family. Dolce & Gabbana managing director and board member Cristiana Ruella and company manager Giuseppe Minoni, who were in attendance with Dolce’s brother Alfonso, were expected to take the stand.
Just in time for the launch of Victoria Beckham's e-commerce site (which launched yesterday) and Throwback Thursday, we came across something interesting. A dress from the singer-turned-serious designer's Fall 2010 collection looks familiar. In fact, it is basically identical (absent a variation in color) to one from the previous Fall collection of fellow London-based designer, Osman Yousefzada. So, what do you think? Copy or coincidence?
Osman Fall 2009 (left) & Victoria Beckham Fall 2010 (right)
For Throwback Thursday, this story is certainly worth a second look. You may recall this Rachel Zoe–inspired "Bananas" shirt designed by NYC-based artist Christopher Sauvé. Not long after Sauvé started offering the limited edition shirt (he had only planned to sell 25), he received a cease-and-desist letter from Zoe's lawyer. Turns out, the stylist-turned-reality star trademarked her go to sayings, "I die" and "Bananas." Shortly thereafter, Sauvé said he received a call from someone who sounded suspiciously like Zoe's assistant Brad, asking if the T-shirts were still for sale.
While Sauvé (who was not available to comment) reportedly hired an attorney of his own with plans to fight the Zoe camp, we have a feeling the two parties settled this one before it even got to court. And in case you weren't able to get a "Bananas" tee, you're not completely out of luck. Sauvé subsequently launched a "Free the Fruit" campaign
to "free fruit from corporate trademark." The interesting part of all of this ... last time we checked, there was a federal registration pending for Rachel Zoe's "I die" trademark but not one for her alleged "bananas" trademark.
The Burkman Brothers continue to hit the sweet spot between eye-catching and easy to wear with their just-released capsule collection for Barneys. The prints that have become the line’s hallmark are still present, but here they’ve turned down the volume a bit – giving the collection a more grown-up, but still very Burkman feel. And, as to be expected, the closer we get to warmer weather the more covetable the Burkman Bros wares become; the bright prints rendered in soft, breathable cottons have basically become a summer uniform for many fans of the brand. Fortunately for us (as we are most definitely fans of the brand) the casual appeal of the Burkmans is just as evident in this capsule collection as ever. But don't take our word for it, head over to Barneys (or Barneys.com) and check out the collection for yourself.
We usually talk about designers taking inspiration from each other, but every once in awhile, we come across inspiration that is taken from art. Case in point: Nuthin but a "g" thang, an editorial in GQ Style UK's Spring/Summer 2013 issue. It is hardly a secret, especially after seeing Riccardo Tisci's Spring 2013 collection for Givenchy (even though his religious references pre-date that collection), that Givenchy's creative director is inspired by religion - Catholicism in particular. So, if you think the image below looks a bit familiar, we think you're right. It appears that Matthew Stone has created an ode to Tisci's religious heritage not only with the garments but also with hints, taking a cue from Italian master Caravaggio. To be specific: Fragment of The Entombment of Christ, (1602–1603). See the images side by side after the break and tell us if you think there's a connection.
Caravaggio's work (left) & the image from GQ Style UK (right)
For our first ever Designer to Know About
post, we figured we would get you up-to-speed on Philip Crangi. You may already know about him from his two jewelry collections. In 2001, Crangi (along with his sister/biz partner, Giles) launched Philip Crangi (a fine jewelry collection) and Giles & Brother, the duo's lower-priced costume line. However, if this is your first time hearing his name, that's ok, too, especially since he just designed a limited-edition collection for JewelMint's inaugural Studio Series. The new JewelMint series brings high-end designers' collections to a lower price point. So, the rings, bracelets and necklaces —all made with the same materials that Crangi uses for Giles & Brother and heavy on the tribal and equestrian influences — range from $30 to $90 at jewelmint.com
. It is the perfect way to get to know this designer to know about!
Refinery29 ran a piece recently entitled: "Is This Local, BFF-Helmed E-Commerce The New Nasty Gal?
" The site claims that Young Love (a brand new e-commerce site) is "somewhat reminiscent of our beloved Nasty Gal in styling, pricing, and product names." Ok, "beloved Nasty Gal"? Whatever. Anyway, we took it upon ourselves to determine just how Nasty the new site is. The conclusion: this is the new Classy Girl. Described as "curating affordable, on-trend clothes from up-and-coming, New York-based designers," Nasty Gal doesn't exactly come to mind. Devoid of blatant Cushnie et Ochs, Pamela Love, Proenza Schouler and Karen Walker copies (aka Nasty Gal signatures), Young Love seems ok to us.
image courtesy of younglove
It is time again for a collection of some of our favorite looks of the week: those designed by emerging talents. Last week, you voted and Jessica Pare in Prabal Gurung Pre-Fall 2013 (and Prabal Gurung for Casadei shoes) won
! What did Prabal think of Pare? He said she was "shining bright" in his turquoise and pink printed dress. Up this week: some of our favorite Pre-Fall and Spring looks by Jason Wu, Michael Van Der Ham, Osman, and more. See all of the looks below and vote for your favorite. Be sure to check back next Friday to see who won, and hear what the winning designer thought of the look. In the meantime, support young designers!
Kerry Washington in Jason Wu Spring 2013
Olga Kurylenko in Christopher Kane Spring 2013
Vanessa Kirby in Michael Van Der Ham Spring 2013
Kristen Stewart in Osman Pre-Fall 2013
Freida Pinto in Proenza Schouler Pre-Fall 2013
Best Dressed This Week
Religion is a source of unending inspiration for designers, editors and even style stars, especially in the past few seasons. Think: Givenchy, Dolce and Gabbana, W Magazine, etc. So, in light of the Easter (and Passover), we are going religious with our style features this weekend. Here are some of our favorite religion-meets-fashion looks. Enjoy ...
images courtesy of vogue, w magazine, purple mag, style.com
By Manuel Baigorri, Bloomberg
(edited by TFL)
Mango is opening channeling uber-successful fast fashion retailer, Zara, as of late. The brand, which has featured famous faces like Kate Moss and Miranda Kerr in its ad campaigns, has ditched its glitz in favor of more casual attire like that from Spanish rival Inditex, the world’s biggest seller of apparel and owner of the Zara brand. The change has helped Mango outpace Inditex in Spain’s 16.2 billion- euro ($21 billion) clothing market.“We had gone way too far with our focus on clothes for parties and events,” said Enric Casi, general manager of the Barcelona-based retailer. “Not even our employees wore Mango.”
Mango says, the chain has cut prices by about 20 percent across the board, bringing them closer to Zara’s. And the company has stepped up expansion outside of crisis-weary Spain and placed more emphasis on the fast-fashion model that has helped Inditex prosper. “Mango is emulating Zara as much as it can,” said Luis Benguerel, an equity trader at Interbrokers in Barcelona. “It needs to follow a successful business in order to fix its mounting problems and achieve the type of growth Inditex has seen.”
Two years ago, about 70 percent of Mango’s revenue came from party and event clothing and 30 percent from casual wear. Now, it’s the other way round, Casi, 57, said in an interview. Mango’s changes are bearing fruit just as the growth that made Inditex founder Amancio Ortega the world’s fourth-richest man shows signs of faltering. Inditex’s profit rose 12 percent in the three months through January, the slowest pace in five quarters and below analyst estimates.
Inditex shares closed at 101.05 euros in Madrid trading on Friday, down 6.8 percent since it announced annual earnings on March 13. Hennes & Mauritz AB (HMB), Europe’s No. 2 fashion chain, slid 0.9 percent in that time period, and have gained 2.4 percent since it released its first-quarter results on March 21. Mango isn’t publicly traded and doesn’t plan to sell shares in the short term, according to Casi. While Inditex faces a “difficult situation” in its domestic market, according to Chief Executive Officer Pablo Isla, Mango is gaining traction in Spain even as retail sales plunge amid record 26 percent unemployment. Profit almost doubled last year after falling in 2011 to the lowest in almost a decade, Casi said.
Spanish sales for Inditex, a fifth of the company’s total, fell 5 percent last year. Mango’s home-country revenue gained about 20 percent, Casi said. H&M sales in Spain, including value-added tax, were flat in 2012. First-quarter revenue in the country fell 6 percent, the Stockholm-based company said last week. Globally, Mango remains far behind Inditex, where revenue has gained every year for the past decade to 15.95 billion euros last fiscal year, making it the best performer in the Stoxx 50 since its May 2001 initial public offering. With a market capitalization of 63 billion euros, Inditex is Spain’s biggest company.
Mango’s revenue hit 1.41 billion euros in 2011. Last year, group sales grew about 22 percent, according to Casi --outpacing Inditex’s 16 percent growth. Still, that’s short of the 30 percent growth Mango forecast in its 2011 annual sustainability report. Mango predicts revenue will almost double from 2011 to 2015, to 2.75 billion euros. Inditex sales may rise 57 percent to 21.7 billion euros in the same period, according to the average estimate of 18 analysts compiled by Bloomberg.
H&M’s total revenue in 2012, excluding value-added tax, climbed 9.8 percent 120.8 billion kronor ($18.6 billion).
The Mango store on Calle de la Princesa in Madrid sells jeans for 29.99 euros, about the same as a similar pair at Zara next door. Mango’s 9.99-euro sleeveless cotton T-shirts, though, are double the price of Zara’s. “Even if Zara still offers less-expensive garments, Mango has cut prices by a lot,” said Iratxe Lindosa, a 37-year-old social worker from Madrid shopping at the Mango in Calle de la Princesa. “A dress I liked but couldn’t afford in the past, I now buy it right away.” Mango is cutting the time it takes for clothing to reach stores, keeping apparel fresh and appealing to younger customers, Casi said. That helps the company avoid constant discounting and restrict markdowns, he said.
Inditex’s gross margin, a measure of profitability, widened to 59.8 percent last year as H&M’s narrowed to 59.5 percent. Mango’s gross margin has shrunk for each of the last five years to 57.2 percent in 2011. Mango now has more than 2,600 outlets in 109 countries. Inditex, which owns eight brands including Zara, Massimo Dutti and Bershka, has just over 6,000 in 86 countries. H&M says it has about 2,800 stores in 48 countries.
Mango is targeting 300 net store openings this year, or about the same as 2012. That compares with Inditex’s goal of about 450 new stores, a slower pace than the 482 net openings in the past fiscal year. H&M plans to add 350 new stores, up from the 325 previously planned. Mango’s expansion in Spain will be “very limited,” Casi said. Inditex doesn’t plan to increase its Spanish store count this year, according to CEO Isla.
Religion is a source of unending inspiration for designers, editors and even style stars, especially in the past few seasons. Think: Givenchy, Dolce and Gabbana, W Magazine, etc. So, in light of the Easter (and Passover), we are going religious with our style features this weekend. Here are some of our favorite religion-meets-fashion looks - Part II. Enjoy ...
images courtesy of vogue, w magazine, purple mag, style.com
Marilyn Manson is the face of Saint Laurent's Spring 2013 campaign. This is not an early April Fools joke because YSL has confirmed it. As if Hedi Slimane wasn't under enough scrutiny, he has created yet another media frenzy (think: the name change, his refusal to speak to anyone after his first show, his feud with Cathy Horyn, etc.) surrounding a collection with less-than-stellar designs. And in case that isn't enough, you know its bad when Mugler creative director Nicola Formichetti likes it! Lady Gaga's pal took to his Instagram, sharing the image of the 1990's musician and writing "Amazing." Beck for an ad campaign was one thing, this is definitely another. RIP, Saint Larent. It was fun while it lasted.
Spring is here and The Fashion Law is in full swing. In case you are a bit behind, we have all of our top stories right here for you. Don't miss out on any of the fashion law and business of fashion happenings with our week in review ...
Dior is on our radar
. In what looks like another case of big design house copying an emerging designer, a necklace from Dior's Fall 2013 collection is a pretty blatant copy of young designer, Noon Passama's. Take a look and tell us what you think!
US First Lady Michelle Obama stepped out in a Prabal Gurung frock and coat for an Easter service in Washington, D.C. today. While Obama's dress choice, the Charcoal Brush Painted Rose Silk Twill Gazar dress, is hardly a surprise (as she is a fan of Gurung's), this is certainly a wonderful present for the designer, who is celebrating his birthday today! If the PG Spring 2010 dress looks familiar, that's because she wore it back in 2010 when she met Jason Wu at the Smithsonian to donate her first inauguration dress. The coat, however, is a new addition.
Old Navy is debuting a chic new jacket for Spring that is garnering quite a bit of attention. The tweed cardigan jacket (below right) will be in the mix at the mass market retailer for a six-week run along with some other "aspirational" items, according to the company's Global senior vice president of design Michael Ingram Jones. As for whether the tweed jacket was inspired by Chanel, Jones said: “I don’t think there was any intention for it to look like anything. We have seen a lot of great-looking women wearing tweed cardigan jackets.” While the jacket feels a bit like the classic Chanel tweed jacket, the French retailer seemingly has no course of action, as Old Navy isn't in the wrong. Legal enthusiasts read on ...
Chanel Fall 2011 (left) & Old Navy Spring 2013 (right)
So, what's the legal scheme for something like this? Well, Old Navy isn't doing anything illegal. Sure, the tweed jacket is a Chanel signature, but absent any trademark infringement by Old Navy, Chanel doesn't have grounds for a lawsuit. The French design house is notorious for policing its trademark, which is likely why Old Navy (and other retailers) are not quick to describe such designs as Chanel-like. You may recall that in 2010, Chanel began placing full page ads in WWD warning against the use of its trademarked named (for instance "Chanel-like") to describe other designers' work. The French design house even alluded to potential lawsuits if editors, etc. don't comply. In Chanel's own words: "Although our style is justly famous, a jacket is not ‘a Chanel jacket’ unless it is ours...And even if we are flattered by such tributes to our fame as ‘Chanel-issime, Chanel-ed, Chanels, and Chanel-ized,’ PLEASE DON’T. Our lawyers positively detest them. We take our trademark seriously."
The Fashion Law Exclusive
- We have yet another exclusive update in the lawsuit brought by Diana Wang, the former Harper's Bazaar intern
, alleging that magazine publisher, Hearst Corporation, violated labor laws by using unpaid interns to replace paid employees. In July, Judge Harold Baer granted conditional certification to the Hearst interns for a class action lawsuit. Last week, Wang (and several additional named plaintiffs that have joined the lawsuit), urged Judge Harold Baer to certify the class action suit, which would include every unpaid intern that worked at Hearst starting Feb. 1, 2006 through the date of the final judgment in the case. This number is reported to amount to about 3,000 individuals. In addition to seeking class certification, Wang filed a motion for partial summary judgment, asking the court to classify them as “employees” in accordance with New York state and federal law. Lastly, the interns requested liquidated damages, and a judgment that Hearst has “willfully” violated federal and state law.
Turns out, former YSL creative director Stefano Pilati is back in at YSL. You may recall that Hedi Slimane replaced Pilati last year and things haven't exactly been running smoothly since then. Think: the name change
, the extensive bad reviews
, Hedi Slimane's diva behavior (such as demanding that he oversee all designing from Los Angeles) and the feud with Cathy Horyn
. It looks like YSL co-founder, Pierre Berge, is eating his words. He spoke to WWD back in July about Pilati's departure: “I am happy that Stefano Pilati is gone, just as I was happy when Tom Ford left." More below ...
but following the latest Saint Laurent ad campaign starring ... Marilyn Manson
, and Slimane's Fall 2013 collection that looked like a Saint Laurent for Macy's line - this may not be too much of a stretch.
Italy’s Tax Commission, has fined Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, the founders of Italian design house, Dolce & Gabbana, 343.4 million euros (about $440.2 million), plus interest. The fine stems from the Italian Internal Revenue Agency's accusations that the design duo is responsible for evading over $500 million in taxes stemming from the sale of the Dolce & Gabbana and D&G brands to their own Luxembourg-based holding company in 2004. The Tax Commission's decision is separate from the ongoing probe by a Milan court. In fact, the decision comes on the heels of the annoucement that next hearing in the ongoing tax trial of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana would be rescheduled for April 10th. More to come ...
image courtesy of coloribus
Juicy Couture's slogan "Made in the Glamorous USA" is not entirely accurate anymore. The Los Angeles-based company, which rose to fame for its terry cloth track suits, now goes by the slogan: "Manufactured in the Glamorous USA." Made vs. Manufactured. What's the big difference? Well, the difference is a matter of federal law. The Federal Trade Commission states that in order for a product to be labeled as Made in the USA, “all or virtually all” the product must be made in America. Technically, this means that U.S. manufacturing costs must constitute 75% of the total manufacturing costs for the product; and the product was last substantially transformed in the U.S.
This distinction became a topic of conversation recently when a Juicy customer tweeted a picture of a t-shirt with a tag reading "Manufactured in the Glamorous USA" and "Made In Vietnam." A spokesperson for Juicy Couture responded, saying essentially that there was a mix-up in production. What we learned? Not all of Juicy Couture's wares are Made in the Glamorous USA.
isn't the only musician starring in Saint Laurent's Spring 2013 ad campaign. Courtney Love, Kim Gordon, and Ariel Pink styled themselves and were shot by creative director Hedi Slimane for the campaign that officially debuted today. Turns out, this is yet another leg of Slimane’s “music project” for the brand. Remember his prior campaign starring Beck? While Marilyn and friends are a bit of a surprise, Courtney Love is pretty obvious choice since Slimane's Fall 2013 womenswear collection was a serious ode to the singer and her 1990's grunge look. You may recall thatwe talked to her exclusively following Slimane's show
, which she praised quite heavily. The campaign is very Hedi - that's for sure. What do you think?
images courtesy of dazeddigital