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The Official Page of The Fashion Law.

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    The shows that opened Milan Fashion Week hardly need reviews because they are just that beautiful. No. 21, Francesco Scognamiglio, Alberta Ferretti, and Gucci's Fall 2013 collections are some of the highlights from day one. Designer Alessandro Dell'Acqua mixed tweeds, plaids, and checks with plenty of embroidery for his No. 21 collection for Fall. Scognamiglio showed a lot of black and white, which some critics have found boring, but I find beautiful. His long-line column dresses, perfectly tailored trousers and polished ruffle blouses may not have been terribly inventive but the collection is wearable and beautiful, and that's fine by me. Gucci was dark. Shiny black python, body-con dresses, and black lace mesh were in full effect. Lastly, Alberta Ferretti for Fall is romantic and recognizable as ever. Some highlights: peplumed jackets, a skating skirt, winter whites and a floor length velvet frock.

    Gucci


    Gucci

    Alberta Ferretti

    Alberta Ferretti

    Francesco Scognamiglio

    No. 21

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    THE FASHION LAW EXCLUSIVE - The U.S. Department of Labor's Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) has cited Forever 21 with two more workplace safety standards violations following an inspection of the Burlington Mall Forever 21 store. The Los Angeles-based fast fashion giant has been slapped with $55,000 in potential fines following a December 2012 inspection by OSHA's Andover Area Office. OSHA cited Forever 21 in 2011 for similar hazards at its Bridgewater, N.J., store. According to Jeffrey A. Erskine, OSHA's area director for Middlesex and Essex counties in Massachusetts: "Improper storage of stock and inadequate exit routes can and do put workers at risk of serious and severe injury. Particularly disturbing is that these same hazards were previously found at another Forever 21 store. An employer with multiple locations, such as Forever 21, must ensure that safe and healthful working conditions are maintained at all its workplaces." According to OSHA, Forever 21 has 15 business days from receipt of its citations and proposed penalties to comply, meet informally with OSHA's area director or contest the findings before the independent Occupational Safety and Health Review Commission.

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    Last month, we dedicated a week to showing you that online retailer Nasty Gal is nothing more than a design pirate! The latest example (which is only one of many): The copycat retailer has stolen emerging design label TOMTOM Jewelry's "Future in Retrograde" necklace and is passing it off as its own. Los Angeles-based jewelry designer Elena Howell, who launched TOMTOM in 2009, took to her Instagram, asking Nasty Gal founder, Sophia Amoruso, to remove the copy. Howell correctly pointed out that her original design is protected by U.S. Copyright law. Hear that, Sophia Amoruso? This copy is illegal! Support original design and shop the real thing here!

    TOMTOM's Future in Retrograde necklace (top) & Nasty Gal's version (below)

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    Just in: these images of actress and Academy award nominee, Jennifer Lawrence, the new face of the Miss Dior Campaign. Lawrence's campaign was shot by Willy Vanderperre wearing pieces from the house's Spring 2013 collection. She replaces actress Mila Kunis as the face of Dior. As for why Dior creative director, Raf Simons, chose Lawrence, he said in October: “Like the whole world I first discovered Jennifer Lawrence as a young action hero ... Her youth and her classic beauty but also the feminine strength and complexity that she can portray at such a young age are for me very unique and very appealing.” What do you think of Lawrence as Miss Dior? I think its safe to say we know who she'll be wearing at tomorrow night's Oscars. 

     

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    The industry has been buzzing this week about Jeremy Scott's Fall 2013 collection, but not for the same reason as we are. Our focus: the shocking similarity between the images on the designer's garments to the artwork of famed graphic designer Jimbo Phillips. Turns out, Phillips isn't too pleased. He took to his Facebook, where he shared the image above with the caption "This is crazy!" What controversial designer Jeremy Scott likely doesn't know (or doesn't seem to care about) is that this is very likely an illegal tactic. 

    While copying the cut and overall feel of another designer's garment is usually legal, that's not the case here. Reproducing someone else's copyright-protected art work without the authorization to do so is copyright infringement - even if the subsequent reproduction is just "derived" from the original copyrighted work. So, there is less room for Scott to argue that this is a "Jimbo Phillips' inspired collection."

    Phillips' work, which largely appears on skateboards (which are utilitarian objects that would otherwise be excluded from copyright protection) is protected. U.S. copyright law provides protection for works of art that are capable of being separated from the useful articles on which they appear (via the Pictorial, Sculptural and Graphic works category). So, because the useful function of a skateboard does not depend on the artwork on it, that artwork is protected via copyright law. Looks like Phillips has grounds for a serious lawsuit here (as long as he has registered his copyrights). More to come ... 


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    The emerging designer poll is back (from a brief Fashion Month hiatus). You voted earlier this month for your favorite look and Kerry Washington in A.L.C. and Wes Gordon won big time! Cast your vote for your favorite look of the week from some of the most talented emerging and/or Made in the U.S. designers, and be sure to check back next Friday to see who wins! Up this week are some of our favorites: Cushnie et Ochs, Prabal Gurung for Casadei, Misha Nonoo and more. See all of this week's looks below and VOTE ... 

    model Miranda Kerr in Peter Pilotto Spring 2013



    designer Michelle Ochs (right) in Cushnie et Ochs Spring 2013

    actress Ginnifer Goodwin in Misha Nonoo Spring 2013

    designer Victoria Beckham in Victoria Beckham Fall 2013

    model Brooklyn Decker in Prabal Gurung for Casadei Spring 2013 sandals

    BEST DRESSED THIS WEEK


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    Overwhelmed by runway shots and Cathy Horyn reviews?  Fear not!  We have our top stories of the week right here so you can catch up ... 

    Rihanna for River Island - I Can't:  Congratulations Rihanna, your collection was even worse than we imagined it would be.  See images of the "fashion" disaster here (if you can stomach them).  

    US Labor Dept. Cites Forever 21 Again: A FASHION LAW EXCLUSIVE: In a not-so-shocking announcement the US Labor Department has again slapped the fast-fashion retailer with a hefty fine for  unsafe working conditions.  Forever 21, if you are not going to design your own products, you should probably protect your workers.

    Former Elite Intern Brings $50M Suit:  Another FASHION LAW EXCLUSIVE:  The intern-related class action suits keep piling up, this time Elite Modeling Agency is under inspection.  Will these interns succeed in these suits?  Or are unpaid internships a rite of passage?

    Are "Parody" Tees Really Parodies?:  Are these street style favorites really parody or are they examples of trademark infringement?  Confused by the difference?  Read our piece to find out more!

    America Loves Prabal, His Target Success:  It's hard to keep track of all of Prabal Gurung's successes but just in case you are add another!  Prabal's "LOVE" Target line launched earlier this month and the 80 piece line has become a must-have.


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    The Milan Fall 2013 shows started off strong and the collections that hit the runway on day two are no exception. Muiccia Prada has been the topic of conversation following her show, as some loved it, some hated it, but it seems no one fell anywhere in between. Prada's "raw elegance" was everything. Nipped-waists, ladylike coats, boxy suits, touches of gold leather, and fur cuffs are center stage for fall. Maybe the best part: the disheveled styling! Max Mara fashion director Laura Lusuardi showed mainly monochromatic camel and deep grays in the form of oversize and structured coats, fluid track pants and straight skirts, and lots of track shoes. I don't know if it was my weakness for monochrome or for easy chic, this collection showed one must-have after the next for Fall 2013. Fur obviously dominated the runway for Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi's Fall 2013 collection. With models’ teased fake mohawks, the striped fur and black leather, the collection was pure 1980's chic. Also not to be missed: Antonio Marras' romantic prints and glamourous modern-day wares. 

    Prada



    Prada

    Fendi

    Antonio Marras

    Max Mara

    Max Mara
    images courtesy of style.com

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    Street style icons were in full effect in London this past week for the Fall 2013 shows. See some of our favorite shots featuring Tiffany Hsu, Caroline Sieber, Vanessa Traina, Lisa Marie Fernandez (in a Duro Olowu coat), Harley Viera-Newton, Chloe Kerman, Holli Rogers, and Francesca Burns, among others. First up ... Argentinian model Magda Laguinge.  Check back tomorrow for more Fashion Month street style!    













    images courtesy of vogue

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    Lindsay Lohan lost a court battle this week - and its not the lawsuit over her clothing line. You may recall that the troubled starlet brought suit last year against musician Pitbull, stemming from his 2011 song, "Give Me Everything," which included the line, "I got it locked up, like Lindsay Lohan." The actress brought suit in a Southern District of New York (S.D.N.Y.) court alleging that the song line violates her publicity rights AND caused her emotional distress, as it "includes an unwarranted, unauthorized, and unfavorable mention of her name and personality." This past week, S.D.N.Y. Judge Denis Hurley dismissed the suit on Thursday, holding that Pitbull's song is "a protected work of art" to which is protected by the rights afforded by the First Amendment affords full protection.

    image courtesy of purple magazine

    Another interesting thing that happened: Lohan's lawyer, Stephanie Ovadia, was called out by the judge and penalized for plagiarism in connection with the Lohan, Pitbull lawsuit. Turns out, Lohan's court briefs were plagiarized from various publications. Ovadia was fined a small amount ($750) but the citation will certainly mar her reputation. 


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    Street style icons were in full effect in London this past week for the Fall 2013 shows. Catch Part II of our London Fashion Week street style diary featuring Kanye West's pal Christine Centenera, Camille Charrière (fashion journalist at Net-A-Porter), Yasmin Sewell (with a Reece Hudson bag!), Maddie Moxham, model Sarah Ann Macklin, Olivia Monnington, Olivia Palermo, and more ...












    images courtesy of elle & fashionologie

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    Day 3 of Milan Fashion Week - Versace Fall 2013 was very Donatella. Tight dresses, studded leather, bright yellow fur and animal prints were in play, as was vinyl, silver spikes and nails. It was punk rock-chic and as sexy as ever. Rossella Jardini showed a varied collection for Moschino. Military-style outfits, tartan, and kilts dominated. Also in the collection: a fringe jacket, rose embroidery, and equestrian-inspired pieces. Interesting? Yes. Wearable? I'm not so sure. Veronica Etro's take of Fall 2013 fused the house's signature multicolored paisleys and other prints with exposed zippers and tough outerwear. Silk dresses and slim pants were paired with motorcycle jackets and baseball jackets, as well as with some minimalist coats. The otherwise simple silhouettes were combined with jacquards, leather, prints, and studs for a bold feel.

    Versace

    Day 4 of Milan Fashion Week - For Fall 2013, Tomas Maier gave the Bottega Veneta woman a romantic and yet, architecturally sculpted collection. Many wool garments, beautifully structured coats and little black cocktail dresses - mixed with his mastery of color and the 1940's vibe - resulted in a beautiful collection. Jil Sander's Fall collection is simple without being plain, elegant without being fussy and glamorous without being flashy. Just below the knee skirts, oversize coats, and hints of gold and fur stole the show. Thigh-high boots, mini dresses (some of which had fringe others had the classic Emilio Pucci print), Peter Dundas evoked seventies rock goddesses and did what he self-admittedly does best: "I make clothes that women want to put on and men want to take off."

    Versace

    Etro

    Moschino

    Jil Sander

    Bottega Veneta

    Pucci

    Pucci
    images courtesy of style.com

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    Looks like someone has a lawyer. Super model-to-be, Cara Delevingne, has trademarked her name. The 20 year-old reportedly registered her name as an official trademark with a UK Intellectual Property office late last year in several classes ranging from accessories, fragrances, and other cosmetics, among others. From our search, it doesn't appear that Delevingne has registered her name in the U.S.

    Other models with U.S. trademark applications in the works: Gisele, who applied to register her name for use in connection with cosmetics. Karlie Kloss applied late last year to register her name for marketing purposes and fashion modelingAbbey Lee Kershaw has registered "Abbey Lee" in several classes: cosmetics, jewelry, leather goods, clothing and entertainment services. 

    image courtesy of vogue

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    A recent editorial that appeared on Complex’s website took aim at the heritage-inspired menswear trend that has been popular over the past few years. The author, James Harris, makes the claim that by buying into this slice of menswear you are consequently buying into everything that existed at the time the manufacturing techniques or textile production or whatever else that is being repurposed, originated – including all forms of racism and bigotry. His words put it best: "My problem with Americana and heritage clothing is that this harking back to the goodol’ days implies that all aspects of that society were positive." Oh. According to Harris' reasoning, my high school English Lit teacher, who taught Faulkner, must have also just LOVED the Jim Crow Laws. The line between Harris being Actually Confused and Intellectually Dishonest is especially blurry here.

    images courtesy of engineered garments

    His logic is essentially thus: You know that raw denim you love because it’s easy to wear and looks good? Well, the looms that helped create your jeans were manufactured at a time in America in which SOME FORM OF SOCIAL INJUSTICE EXISTED. Oh you knew that? RACIST!

    Mr. Harris gets so wrapped up in his thesis (i.e. everything that occurred before 1980 should be forgotten because of the social injustices of the time. (Wait, but then we had the crack epidemic and AIDS in the 80’s and 90’s. So, let’s not “romanticize” those either. Basically, anything pre-2000 is off-limits. But wait, gays still can’t get married, and so, let’s not count the 2000’s either. And that leaves us with…)) that he poses the following question to the reader - "Would you go back and admire the durable stitching on a black man’s trousers as police dogs are turned upon him for peacefully protesting?

    SERIOUSLY, dude? Hyperbole and insincere appeals-to-emotion aside, this is such an extreme logical reach that it is actually impossible to debate without getting second-handedly embarrassed. The author cannot possibly believe that when menswear aficionados opine over the superior manufacturing on a pair of pants that they also secretly wish to return to a pre-Civil Rights America. Do better, Complex. Seriously. 

    Read the rest of James Harris’s tirade against logic and also clothing here

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    This Model Mondays post, is special not only because its our first but because it from one of our newest favorite sources: Open Lab Magazine. In case you're not familiar with them, Open Lab is an independent arts and fashion bi-annual based in NYC, that features work from some of the most promising young names in the industry. For Spring/Summer 2013, model we love, Ash Stymest, graces the magazine's covers. Check out the shoot entitled "Violently Happy" - shot by Mark Rabadan and styled by Paolo Zagoreo.




    images courtesy of openlabmag

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    Milan Fashion Week Day 5 was a big one. Salvatore Ferragamo for Fall 2013 consists almost entire of black, grey, navy and white. Massimiliano Giornetti showed sleek coats (one with black beaver fur and another in white alpaca), turtle necks, short dresses and mini skirts. Not to be missed: the shoes! Shoes as boots with cutouts at the front and laces up the back to the knee. Angela Missoni (without the help of her brother, Vittorio) showed an interesting collection for Fall. Pajama dresses, robes as outerwear, slouchy silhouettes were in effect. Simultaneously, sheer-paneled frocks, classic Missoni prints and fishnet tights paired with boots. I want to wear Missoni Fall 2013. Consuelo Castiglioni describes his Marni collection austere but romantic. Dolce and Gabbana showed almost 80 looks filled with Sicilian-inspired golden mosaics, religious motifs, hand beading and beautiful color (including a finale of all red looks). Embellished tunics, lace dresses, and bloomers as pants were over the top and theatrical, and yet, many of the pieces were utterly appealing and oddly wearable. 

    Salvatore Ferragamo

    Missoni

    Marni

    Dolce & Gabbana

    Dolce & Gabbana

    Dolce & Gabbana
    images courtesy of style.com

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    This week in one of our favorite things, celebrity fashion lines, we have some updates for you. Kate Bosworth is set to debut a collection with Brit fast fashion retailer (which has since expanded to the U.S.), Topshop. She is qualified to do so because: she starred in the brand's holiday campaign, attended some store events and attended the Topshop Unique A/W 2013 presentation earlier this month in London. She has also been spotted front row at Cushnie et Ochs, Prabal Gurung and Joseph Altuzarra's shows. That's equivalent to graduating from Central Saint Martins, right? 


    Maroon 5 front man, Adam Levine, is in the process of designing a clothing line for KMart. And while you would probably assume that its exclusively a menswear line, since he doesn't actually have any design training - it's not. The singer is "designing" a menswear and womenswear collection. His description of the line: "There's so much sexy out there. My line will figure out a way to represent my convoluted and confusing opinion on what is sexy."

    In case you were fooled by Kohl's marketing of a Jennifer Lopez Collection, and thought that Jennifer Lopez actually designs the clothing line, I'm here to enlighten you. In fact, not only does she not design it, you can! Kohl's is currently hiring (more and/or new) designers for the line. So, if you have a passion for J.Lo-inspired fashion, go for it. 

    Because Rihanna for River Island is the epitome of celebrity clothing lines - here's a refresher of that beautifully designed collection


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    Numéro magazine has managed to create one of the more controversial spreads as of late in its March 2013 issue. In an editorial entitled, African Queen, the magazine features a heavily tanned Ondria Hardin, who was shot by Sebastian Kim. In case putting a model in borderline black-face makeup is not enough, the model they chose is interesting. You may recall that the now 16-year old Hardin was one of the underage models cast in Marc Jacobs' February 2012 show, which was a huge deal at the time. With that in mind, Hardin is quite in demand at the moment, and so, the mag's choice of model is likely a coincidence. See more images from the shoot below and tell us (in the comment section below): Are you offended?



    images courtesy of tfs

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    For most of our Some Thoughts From posts, we've featured designers, but as promised, its going to feature varied individuals in the fashion industry and who better than unconventional "it" model, Bradley Soileau. He basically sky-rocketed to fame after starring in Lana Del Rey's Born to Die video last year and since then he's appeared in some of our favorite menswear shows and editorials. He doesn't really need much more of an introduction than that. 

    image courtesy of publicschool

    On being famous: "I don’t want to be noticed on the street, but it’s too late for that."

    His favorite model: "My favorite female model is Freja Beha Erichsen."

    What he was doing before he was a model: "I actually was a drug dealer; I sold a lot of weed. I deejayed, I had friends in New York that were producers and stuff so I was living the party life."

    On fashion: "I didn’t really know much about fashion nor really cared but I like clothes. Getting into fashion now, being a model, meeting designers, and learning about brands that I’ve never heard of, I would eventually like to start my own line." 

    On other models: "There are these really eccentric weird kids out there who are so much more interesting. That’s why I’d like to have my own brand, to put models like that on the map. I feel like these kids are more special than these Dior walking dudes that look like everyone else. So I’m interested in making that possible for sure."


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    On December 30, the world of those, who are amused by the personal lives of celebrities, was rocked forever as rapper and sometimes “designer” Kanye West announced to the world that his girlfriend, Kim Kardashian, was on track to become his “baby momma.” The news immediately went viral, setting our celebrity obsessed culture aflame with speculation, wonder, and excitement. The largest question obviously being: Is the pregnancy a carefully crafted PR move for the fame-hungry Kardashian and the equally ego-driven West? The second, which follows almost instantly is, how will the power couple choose to market this pregnancy and the subsequent baby? So far, Kardashian, who rose to fame via a sex tape and her subsequent reality show empire, seems to be shunning the more understated “Beyonce method” of pregnancy. Instead, she is soaking in the press her condition has brought her with constant public outings, magazine covers and an announcement that their baby brand is, in fact, a girl. 


    The rules of decency dictate that we cannot really tell a woman how to display her body, pregnant or not, but Kardashian’s pregnancy has led me to wonder about the public nature of the female body. This is especially interesting when the female in question is one who has turned her life into a carnival-esque narrative that clearly favors self-promotion, rather than any objective form of quality. Accepting compensation in exchange for airing the majority of her daily life on national television (including trips to the fertility clinic), raises the question: Who really owns Kardashian’s body and image? Her, or the public who has essentially made her who she is by consuming her show, clothing lines, and even the diet pills she endorses? When and where does the public collide with the private? The creation of this baby was undoubtedly private, but its incubation period certainly is a matter of public discourse. 

    West has crafted a career based on his hubris and eccentricity, and, yet his talent is undeniable. The Kim + Kanye connection has been a mix of tabloid gold and tabloid night mare. Journalists scramble to maintain West’s seriousness factor, as an artist as he pops up again and again on episodes of the latest Kardashian show, slowly chipping away at his image of untouchable rap genius. I wonder what will happen as this pregnancy progresses and the baby is born into a world that has been anxiously awaiting its arrival. In many ways, the Kimye baby is already something post-human - a brand cyborg that reminds us of the contorted reality many of us live in. One that confuses media with reality and one where idealism and the grotesque reign supreme. Either way, I extend only the best wishes to Kim for a healthy and fashionable pregnancy. Brand cyborg or merely human, the birth of this baby will truly be a celebrity event whether we like it or not. Let’s just hope that both stars aren’t suddenly inspired to start trademarking name and release collections of baby clothes. The fast fashion gods cannot be that cruel, can they?

    JULIETTE ARICO is a Ph.D. student and teacher in Global Gender Studies at the University at Buffalo in Buffalo, NY. Her current work, which addresses constructions of the female body in cinema and literature lies at the intersection of critical, queer, and feminist theories. She is a regular contributor to The Monolith, where her weekly column, Fraud or Freud?, addresses issues of sexuality and cinema.  

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