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The Official Page of The Fashion Law.

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  • 02/08/13--16:03: NYFW Day 2 Highlights
  • Cushnie et Ochs went into the woods for Fall 2013. Inspired by nature, young "it" designers Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs focused on their signature strengths (sexy bodycon dresses and those cult-worthy cut outs), in addition to demonstrating their ability to tailor. They showed prints again, after introducing them for Pre-fall, adorning garments with wood/branches-inspired prints. Also in the collection: their material of choice - stretch leather. The cut outs were in full effect and some were whip stitched together. They were the forefront of a floor length gown cut out at the ribs and sternum, while others featured only minimalist cuts. All in all, the black, white, and forest green-colored collection was very much in line with the Cushnie et Ochs focus, but was not without novelty and innovation. This, in connection with the A-list attendance, we're sure CeO is here to stay.
                                

    Los Angeles-based designer Jenni Kayne may have been snowed out of New York but her easy chic aesthetic was in full effect at her Fall 2013 presentation. Highlights: the slim, elongating silhouettes; structured jackets; and ankle grazing trousers. Also worth noting: the metallic stretch leather; the acid yellow prints and the return of her classic leopard print, which Kayne introduced nearly 10 years ago. Between the creamy white monochrome looks and the plunging neckline on a sleek gown for the evening, Kayne manages to mix west coast casual with the utmost in glam. Lastly, the Jenni Kayne d'orsay flats and pointy-toe mules are not to be missed in royal purple, leopard, black and a deep hunter green. Kanye-wearers will be among the best dressed this Fall!

                                            

    Monika Chiang is slowly coming into her own, as a hip, youthful brand for the downtown crowd. The collection consists largely of leather leggings paired with belted tops, mini dresses and structured jackets.







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    The New York Times' Cathy Horyn put an interesting piece on her On the Runway blog, seemingly bashing the start of New York Fashion Week. She is taking issue, mainly, with "the lack of energy and imagination" that she has perceived thus far. Another interesting point, her comparison of American talent to that of Europe: "At a time when the talent in Europe is especially strong — Christopher Kane, Raf Simons at Dior, Phoebe Philo at Céline, to mention a few — the flabbiness of New York is puzzling." It seems a bit unfair for Horyn to acknowledge that NYFW is, in fact, still in the "shallow end," aka no one of Raf Simons' stature has even shown in New York yet - but she still compares them to Raf (who she just loves so much). While Horyn makes a valid point, the American fashion industry has strides to make, her delivery seems to be yet another publicity stunt, instead of being thoughtful journalism. Take her comparison to rappers, for instance, (because I'm sure she knows a lot about rappers) ... "You would think — or anyway, hope — that a young New York designer would want to express in fashion what a young rapper does in music and style. I don’t mean imitate that person but at least offer something that feels just as raw and connected."

    Jason Wu Fall 2013

    My last point centers in her comment: "Maybe we are seeing the beginning of a generational shift in this country away from fashion as a creative medium." That's a bit of a stretch. It hardly seems that the appointment of American designer Alexander Wang to Balenciaga, the enormous success of Jason Wu, and the promise of young brands like Prabal Gurung, Cushnie et Ochs, Altuzarra, and Proenza Schouler indicates a shift away from fashion. Horyn should have waited and attended a few more shows before making such bold statements and undermining the industry that she has made her career in. I do, however, wholeheartedly agree with one point that Horyn makes: "The problem is there are too many labels and not enough genuine talent." The talent we have is enormous in the U.S. but it is certainly being muddled by the many, many brands in existence.

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    America's sweetheart, Prabal Gurung showed his Fall 2013 collection this morning to a packed house of fashion royalty. Inspired by modern warrior women, Gurung did not disappoint. With looks styled by Tiina Lakkonen and big names hitting the runway, the Prabal Gurung woman arguably never looked so good. This is very much the result of Prabal venturing out of his comfort zone, which we haven't seen much of so far this week. Some highlights: an army green, black, white and red color palette, intricate embroidery, military details, Tom Ford-esque shoes, and cut out paneled dresses. Also on our radar: the beaded silk dresses and navy blue gowns with harnesses.  See all the images below.





































    (images courtesy of W magazine) 

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    Alexander Wang, the NYC-based designer, who was recently named the creative director of Balenciaga, showed his namesake collection today. A dressed-down evening aesthetic was in full swing with a color palette of blacks, whites, grays and rust, plenty of sequins and leather, and coats that ranged from great to perfect. Wang focused on the garments' folds and draping, as well as accessories: low heels, sweater shoes, new bags and fur boxing gloves.  See the entire collection below. 










































    (images courtesy of W magazine)

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    Mara Hoffman showed her Fall 2013 collection and the overwhelming feel was gypset, of course. Garments  in corals, cobalts, and fuschias floated down the runway adorned with Hoffman's signature prints, including her go-to kaliedescope. A mix of body conscious and floaty silhouettes took the form of ponchos, pants suits, floor length frocks, and cozy chic sweaters and seemingly weightless blouses paired with leather pants. Delicate embroidery and nearly perfect styling were in play, including Pamela Love armour rings and draped earring made of long chains. True to form, Hoffman proved to be a lovely escape from a cold winter day and had show goers mentally packing their bags for warm weather vacas! 


    Parsons grad, Nolan Bellavance, made his NYFW debut this week and based on his impressive list of honors and awards (including but not limited to the 2011 CFDA Student Award and design student of the year nomination at Parsons), we admittedly had some expectations. And they were met! The label's bright future resonated in a collection that consisted of  well-tailored frocks, clean lines in the form of skirts and jackets, and generally appealing proportions. Also on our radar: monochrome white looks, patent leather trimmed jackets and skirts, sculpted bodices and the fur! This is absolutely a brand to watch! 


    Footwear designer Alejandro Ingelmo took The Standard by storm with his Fall 2013 men's and women's collection. Scaled high top sneakers in emerald, balk, deep brown and rust were a highlight for men, as we're the shimmery gold sneakers with black details and laces. A must have for footwear fanatics: the fur-topped sneakers and the thick-soled wingtip boots in deep brown. Girls, you are in luck, too. Ingelmo continued to innovate with his exquisitely crafted and equally beautiful and edgy pumps. In deep forest green with metallic accents, black and purple, his tall backed pumps with teardrop insets, are daring and gorgeous. Also very noteworthy: his intricate strappy cutout pumps that no footwear collection is complete without. For those who seek a more classic shoe, his basic pumps are sleek and chic, as are the open-toe booties.


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  • 02/10/13--14:32: A Cat on the NYFW Runway
  • Tracy Reese's Fall 2013 collection was one of the highlights of the afternoon. However, the true star: the cat. Turns out, as part of the Purina ONE brand cat food’s True NatureTMof Cats movement and the launch of Purina ONE® SMARTBlend®, Purina ONE is challenging misconceptions about cats, beginning with the idea they can’t be leash trained. The result: a partnership with Tracy Reese? Yes. Weird? Definitely! Apparently the NYFW runways have become the home of product promotions. It was Google and DVF for Spring, and now Tracy Reese and Purina. Hawking non-fashion products on the runway: tacky or not? My vote goes to tacky because the connection between these brands seems to be quite a stretch. Thoughts?


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    You may have caught our piece on the inevitability of a little something we like to call mall couture. It is basically the influx of accessible "luxury." One of the brands that falls in this less-than-desirable category: Coach, but maybe not for long. The American accessories brand has been positioning itself for a comeback for some time now, following its fall from grace amongst the most fashionably sophisticated and the in-the-known young upper class consumers. While the company has long dominated the accessories market in the U.S. and experienced steady growth (for the most part), it does not have the appeal of Proenza Schouler or international "it" bag makers Balenciaga, Celine and even Louis Vuitton. It is not exactly fair to compare Coach to these brands for many reasons, but as Coach's prices inch higher, with bags selling for $1,500+, the comparison is not that outlandish. So, the problem: why would a consumer spend that on a Coach bag (rife with memories of bad logos past), when she could buy a PS1? This is where Coach finds itself today. 


    Coach has been undergoing a transformation. Tapping Gwyneth Paltrow for some ad campaigns, showing on the Anna Sui runway and recently, collaborating with the Olsen's popular Elizabeth and James line. Even more recently, the brand announced that it will debut a ready to wear collection, which will reportedly rival Tory Burch and Michael Kors. Hopefully the former a bit more than the latter for everyone's sake! In order to transcend above its average customer and its conventional $300 purses, and be taken seriously as a brand capable of "it" bag status, Coach has work to do. The company needs to practice exclusivity in conjunction with distancing itself from the horrid C's logo that has become synonymous with run of the mill fashion. Lucky for Coach, greatness is in its archives. There was a time when Coach bags were logo-less, and the quality craftsmanship and chic simplicity sold itself. Reed Krakoff, the brand's creative director, is certainly capable, and what better time than now, when Americans are experiencing more appreciation for domestic brands. 

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  • 02/11/13--10:45: NYFW Highlights: Day 4
  • Honduras-born, New York-based Carlos Campos showed his Fall 2013 collection yesterday. Known for the skinny tailoring he does so well and his impeccable use of color, Campos also proved, yet again, that his attention to detail is on point, as well. Incorporating prints and all-over stripes into the mix, leather jackets and vests, carefully tailored outerwear, and even some polished evening pieces, Campos showed his range more in this collection than we've seen to date. Highlights: the printed varsity jacket, the color-blocked coat (a nice connection to his Spring collection). All of his jackets were really well-done. The trench coats, double breasted jackets, waist coats. Campos finds a beautiful balance between youth and refinement and it works season after season; this one in particular!



    Labeled one of the "must see" collections this season by WWD, Public School hardly needs any talking up. Designers Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne provide a wardrobe for the cool kids in an otherwise very sophisticated world of menswear. This is not to say that their designs aren't highly developed, because the leather details, clean suit jackets, and shearling accents show that Public School is worth a second glance. In addition to the designers, Details Magazine's Eugene Tong is a must mention part of the show. His styling of the dark lux-meets-school boy cool wares was nothing short of perfect. Laying athletic shorts over slim pants and scarves as headwear under hats. The result was a seamless flow that was unmistakable. Tong's styling was unsurpassable.


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  • 02/12/13--09:26: NYFW Highlights: Day 5
  • Wes Gordon is one of the youngest designers showing at NYFW and yet, he is talented beyond his years. Going decadent for Fall, Gordon was pretty fearless. He showed a bold marigold opera coat, a gilded gold frock, jacket and trousers, and metallic printed pants suits and separates. Add pops of colored fur and velvet booties, and the result is utter decadence. Gordon continued his elongating silhouettes, namely those flared trousers that we love so much. The collection had a posh, decadent feel, while remaining young and wearable.

    Ohne Titel's (German for "Untitled") Fall 2013 collection took the runway and the result was somewhat unexpected. The brand's signature knits take the form of geometric prints for Fall complete with fur trim and quilted accents. Also in the collection: fabric layered from the waist, resulting in makeshift peplums; leather dresses; and two-tone leatherjackets. In terms of accessories, designers Alexa and Flora showed quilted booties and wrestling-style headgear. I was not terribly taken with the collection, several pieces were noteworthy: a dress with leather sleeves, printed pants reminiscent of Celine, a leather accented jacket, and the final dresses bearing mosaic-like accents. I'm not sure if it was the pieces themselves or the styling by Caroline Issa that didn't work, but we've seen better from Ohne Titel.



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    Likely based on the intense demand for The Row accessories, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen have designed a collection for their lower priced line, Elizabeth and James. You may recall the frenzy that surrounded their $39,000 crocodile backpack in 2011, which resulted in the bags selling out from Barneys and subsequent influx of lookalikes by fast fashion retailers. The Elizabeth and James line is set the hit stores in July, about two years after the launch of The Row's backpack, and the line ranges in price from $125 to $395 for small leather goods and $395 to $625 for bags. So, now that a more affordable backpack by the famous twins is available, see a few versions inspired by The Row's backpack below and tell us which one you like the most by voting! 


    from left: Topshop Unique, Nasty Gal, and Elizabeth & James

    We're sure you know our choice, but which of the bags is your favorite?  Tell us in the comments below! 


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  • 02/12/13--20:14: Oscar de la Renta Fall 2013
  • Oscar de la Renta is always a highlight for New York Fashion Week attendees, but his Fall 2013 collection was one of the most anticipated in the recent past. With disgraced designer, John Galliano, contributing to the Fall collection, the anticipation leading up to Tuesday night's show was felt throughout the industry. In fact, de la Renta's website, which was set to live stream the show, crashed just before the 6:30pm show, due to an increased volume of traffic. While Galliano didn't take a bow following the show's finale, his touch was apparent. From the opening sequence of wrap coats and jackets, an ode to Dior could be felt. There was also a noticeable shift away from purely airy, girly designs, those that dominated de la Renta's recent collection to a darker elegance, as seen in hooded capes, floor length jackets and skinny leather pants. Note: romance isn't dead. The closing ball gowns are proof of that! All in all, it seems Oscar and John Galliano make a beautiful team.




















































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    Following John Galliano's attendance at Oscar de la Renta's Fall 2013 show last night, the NY Post is none too pleased. According to the publication, "disgraced designer and convicted anti-Semitic ranter John Galliano ignited a new round of outrage yesterday — dressing like a Hasid." Following the March 2011 incident, Galliano was fired from Dior and his namesake label, John Galliano. He also stood trial in France after attending months of rehab in the U.S. for drug and alcohol addiction. The NY Post, in a rare move to present both sides of an issue, printed another article defending Galliano's outfit choice.  The article claims his clothes were an effort to make amends to the culture he offended. Galliano got a second chance these past few months, after Oscar offered him an apprenticeship of sorts at his design house. So, what does the Galliano camp say? This was not a personal attempt at offending the religious group. Liz Rosenberg, Galliano’s publicist, told the Post: “Your accusations are not at all correct.” We say: Let the man (who usually dresses like a pirate) live. 


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    Some of the industry's hottest names were spotted in attendance at Michael Bastian's Fall 2013 show on Tuesday night. On the runway, Sebastian Sauve, Christopher Moore, Romain Julien and others modeled fur gloves, bright orange wares, well-tailored suits, and shorts layered over jogging pants. But maybe more notable than any of this? Casey Legler. The girl, who made headlines late last year for her exclusive listing on Ford Models' mens roster. This is the first sighting of Legler on the NYFW runways, but this is likely the first of many shows for her, especially since she looks pretty fierce.


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    Proenza Schouler is hands down one of the coolest brands in the U.S. and the design duo has had an impressive year so far (think: planning to open a second store, relaunching their footwear line, etc.). So, it's only fitting that their first show of 2013 was on point. Super model Sasha Pivavarova opened the Fall 2013 show, which was largely black and white and rang of the wearable modernity that has made this brand a cult fav. Inspired by photographer John Divola's Zuma series, the Fall wares feel a bit of a change in the PS aesthetic. The garments are streamlined and elegant, but with a bit more of a ladylike feel than previous collections. There is incredible outerwear, dresses topped with cropped jackets, just below-the-knee skirts, belted frocks and an amazing cut-out wrap dress. Highlights: feathers, diverse textures (chainmail!), and new silhouettes for the brand (rounded shoulder jackets, etc.). While the collection feels a bit Balenciaga-ish, it is very much the work of Jack McCullough and Lazaro Hernandez.






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  • 02/14/13--15:33: NYFW Hightlights from Day 6
  • Giovanna Randall showed yet another beautiful collection yesterday. For Fall 2013, this made in NYC label was went a bit retro with strong hints of love. The result: a very wearable collection, which is a bit of a change from the very gorgeous but less wearable collection she showed for Fall. Color-blocked dresses, well-proportioned jackets, bedazzled collars, and heart prints dominated the runway. The foiled jacquard Randall utilized was beautiful, especially when slightly mis-matched with another print. The majority of looks were long sleeved shift dresses with various prints or embellishments, most of which were styled with flats and tights. Highlights from Randall's Fall offerings were certainly the striped and spotted tank and matching ballroom skirt, the adorable caplets, and the very lust-worthy, polished jackets. As for the hearts, the timing was appropriate but the jacquard print certainly stole our attention. 




    The name Brandon Sun has become synonymous with fur and for one of the first times, he made us forget that for a moment. His Fall 2013 presentation was far more of a collection of easy elegant ready-to-wear than the work of someone focused primarily on fur. The young designer has been introducing new materials and silhouettes into his repertoire for some time now, and so, the silk dresses, the tulle-backed tanks, scaled tops and shearling trim jackets felt right at home in Sun's Fall collection. The styling and proportions were nearly perfect. The skinny trousers under long layers and fur-accented jackets, the leather bodiced dress and streamlined frocks  (some of which were belted) were well-proportioned and lux, yet wearable. All in all, the collection was quite a home run for this up-and-coming designer and we are dying to see what comes next. 


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    Los Angeles-based designer Jenni Kayne may have been snowed out of New York but her easy chic aesthetic was in full effect at her Fall 2013 presentation. Highlights: the slim, elongating silhouettes; structured jackets; and ankle grazing trousers. Also worth noting: the metallic stretch leather; the acid yellow prints and the return of her classic leopard print, which Kayne introduced nearly 10 years ago. Between the creamy white monochrome looks and the plunging neckline on a sleek gown for the evening, Kayne manages to mix west coast casual with the utmost in glam. Lastly, the Jenni Kayne d'orsay flats and pointy-toe mules are not to be missed in royal purple, leopard, black and a deep hunter green. Kayne-wearers will be among the best dressed this Fall! 


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    Cushnie et Ochs went into the woods for Fall 2013. Inspired by nature, young "it" designers Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs focused on their signature strengths (sexy bodycon dresses and those cult-worthy cut outs), but not without demonstrating their ability to tailor and play with proportions. Think: the flared skirt that opened the show and the boxy tops paired with fluid trousers, as well as the increased focus on outerwear. The design duo showed prints again, after introducing them for Pre-fall, adorning garments with wood/branches-inspired prints. Also in the collection: their material of choice - stretch leather, which took the form of ladylike frocks and sexy pencil skirts, etc. 

    The design duo, who manufacture all of their garments in NYC, featured some of their specialty cut outs for Fall. Some were loosely whip-stitched together, giving the pieces a bit of an upscale, yet sporty feel. They were the forefront of a floor length gown, which was cut out at the ribs and sternum, while others featured only minimalist cuts at the waist or shoulders. All in all, the black, white, and forest green-colored collection was very much in line with the Cushnie et Ochs focus, but was not without novelty and innovation. With one strong collection consistently following another, we're sure CeO is here to stay.  


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    Wes Gordon is one of the youngest designers showing at NYFW and yet, he is one of the most promising. Undeniably talented beyond his years, Gordon was quite fearless for Fall 2013. He showed a bold hued, floor-legth opera coat; a dress, jacket and trousers in gilded gold; cropped leather tops; a fur-blocked (like color-blocked but with fur) winter white coat; and brocade pants suits and separates. Added to the palette of jewel tones, which Gordon describes as "an explosion of color," were pops of colored fur and velvet booties. The result is daringly chic. Gordon continued his elongating silhouettes, a bit reminiscent of the red flared trousers from his Spring collection that we love so much. True to form, Gordon's Fall 2013 offerings have a posh, ladylike feel, while remaining youthful and surprisingly wearable. He is a designer to become familiar with!


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    The name Brandon Sun has become synonymous with fur and for one of the first times, he made us forget that for a moment. His Fall 2013 presentation was far more a collection of easy elegant ready-to-wear than the work of someone focused exclusively on fur. The young, NYC-based designer, who has worked for Oscar de la Renta and J. Mendel, has been introducing new materials and silhouettes into his repertoire for some time now. Thus, the hammered silk dresses, the tulle-backed tanks, scaled tops and airy kimonos felt right at home in Sun's Fall collection. The styling and proportions were nearly perfect. The skinny trousers under long layers and fur-accented jackets, the leather bodiced dress and streamlined frocks (some of which were belted) were well-proportioned and lux, yet wearable. All in all, the collection, which was inspired by Japanese artist Kazuo Shiraga’s works, was quite a home run for this up-and-coming designer and we are dying to see what comes next.


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    We have had our eyes on newbie designer, Lorry Newhouse, since she launched her NYC-based design house last year, for a few reasons. Namely, her pieces exude the utmost in charm and delicacy, and they are all made in NYC's Garment Center factories. So, we were thrilled to spot "it" girl and brand consultant Julia Loomis wearing a frock from Lorry Newhouse's Spring 2013 collection to Marchesa's Fall 2013 show and Bibhu Mohapatra's party. We love made in NYC designers and the chic women who support them! More to come on Lorry... 


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