As our last Saturday Style Feature of the year, we have compiled a post of some of our favorite street style icons, including: Alice Dellal, Justin O'Shea, Freja Beha Erichsen, Kyle Anderson, Waris, Emmanuelle Alt, and more ...
I know I said The Fashion Law would not being featuring any Best of 2012 lists, but there is one more very necessary exception: our favorite male models of the year. So, here is our non-exhaustive list (I know I am definitely forgetting some!) of our favorites in the industry. Tell us what you think of our list and whether or not your favorites are on it!
Kanye West's Givenchy kilt is old news. I mean, he did wear it for the entire Watch the Throne tour. So, it comes a little surprise that he is onto his next fashion statement, a crystal-encrusted Maison Martin Margiela mask. In addition to his all-white attire, he rapper sported the Margiela mask on stage this weekend at the Revel in Atlantic City. Margiela showed the mask as part of its A/W12 couture collection. No word on who made the lovely feathered mask that he also wore during the concert, but see it in the video below.
He also gave quite a speech on his second night about how it "won't be long before we start designing stores, movies, clothes, operas." He also addressed his choice to show his not-so-stellar collection in Paris saying: "Well, ain't that the best place to show it?" and as for the bad reviews: "I only did two of them."
Here at The Fashion Law, we are fans of Carlos Campos' menswear, and so, we were happy to see Maroon Five frontman Adam Levine and a fellow band member wearing designs from Campos' Spring 2013 collection on E News earlier this month. The monochrome blue looks, especially James Valentine's suit, appear to be tailored with quite a bit of precision, a Carlos Campos staple. However, when I reached out to the designer for a comment, he informed me the designs were not from his namesake label. So, tell me: A coincidental use of a common color or an attempt to replicate the Carlos Campos look?
Need an outfit for tonight? The ultimate New Years Eve outfit is complete with pieces from out favorite established and emerging designer brands, including Cushnie et Ochs, Prabal Gurung, L'Wren Scott, Tabitha Simmons, Pamela Love and more ...
clockwise from left: Cushnie et Ochs bra top, Pamela Love necklace, Tabitha Simmons sandals, Reece Hudson clutch and Prabal Gurung skirt.
clockwise from left: L'Wren Scott mini dress, Louboutin sandals and Dax Gabler clutch
Chris Burch and his ex-wife Tory are welcoming the new year with a settled lawsuit. Chris Burch filed a complaint against Tory in October alleging breach of contract and hijacking the bidding process (of Chris' shares in her co.) to which Tory filed counterclaims of her own. The two, who are currently on the board of the Tory Burch brand and own equal stakes in the company, settled today. The details of the settlement are confidential.
As you probably know, 2012 was an amazing year for The Fashion Law. Thank you, thank you for continually reading and sharing your thoughts with us. We are looking to the upcoming year and strive to bring you more insight into fashion law and the business of fashion in the year to come. As always, The Fashion Law loves you.
It's no secret that The Fashion Law loves young, emerging brands. So, here is a short list of some of the designers that we are most excited for in 2013 (in addition to our go to labels) ...
Timo Weiland - Design duo, Alan Eckstein and Timo Weiland, who are part of the CFDA's second Fashion Incubator program, show collections that consist of menswear and womenswear. They definitely draw the hip New York crowd to their shows, and while they received somewhat harsh reviews for their Spring 2013 collection, their brand seems to be a bit in-the-works, which makes it exciting to see how things will come together.
Roomeur - The womenswear label, designed by Hagit Kassif and Omer Pozner, is brand new. Making their debut with a collection for Pre-fall 2013, the girls' collection consists of tailored garments with geometric embroidery and vibrant prints. I'm looking forward to what they will show for Fall.
Alasdair - NYC-based Alasdair by April Johnson, a former fashion stylist, may not be a household name, but I think it is just a matter of time. Consisting largely of loose-fitting silhouettes and lux staples, (which sounds a bit like Mark-Kate and Ashley Olsen's The Row), this label may just be the next best thing.
Daniel Vosovic - You may recognize Vosovic's name as he won Project Runway: All Star Challenge. The womenswear designer is also part of the CFDA's second Fashion Incubator program. Over the past year, Vosovic has showed tremendous growth. His Spring 2012 collection won me over for its clean and subtle sexuality, only to be followed by his most recent show (Spring 2013), which was quite chic.
David Koma - The Central St. Martins grad. is on my radar for his daring body-con dresses, cut outs, fearless layering and his ability to kind of reinvent these elements every season. From tennis-chic to tribal to dominatrix, Koma's designs, which largely consist of body-cons, are sculpted so well that his forays into different themes prove to be unique and feel cohesive, and leave me wondering what the next season will bring.
There is a "new report" by the Financial Times, which sheds light the decrease in sales of the big luxury brands and thus, the not-so-novel need to avoid ubiquity in the high fashion/luxury sector. I say that this isn't exactly breaking news because here at The Fashion Law, we have been speaking to this point for quite some time now. For instance, you may have caught our piece on Louis Vuitton's questionable market saturation tactic - it addresses this point in particular: the inevitable decline in sales that will follow from the mass availability and thus, exposure, of a brand's goods. Another piece reports onHermès' increase in sales and predicts a decrease in sales for big brands, such as Louis Vuitton.
The Financial Times' piece is somewhat lacking in info we didn't already know. The report identifies China, at least in part, for the decline in luxury sales (namely those of Louis Vuitton, Burberry, Tiffany and Gucci). This is interesting as Asia constitutes the largest market for these brands - ones that appear to have chosen the profit by market saturation approach as opposed to Hermes' anti-mass market strategy. These brands are also distinct from luxury brands, such as The Row, which experienced serious demand for its $39,000 backpack. One key distinction (aside from age - The Row is less than 10 years old. These big brands are hundreds of years old): The Row's backpack is basically logo-less, much like the Hermès Birkin and Kelly bags, and the quantities sold were relatively small.
The key principle here should not really be news to anyone. Pimping out a luxury brand by covering anything and everything with its logo and selling in massive quantities is mutually exclusive to the underlying notion of luxury. Further, this strategy is not sustainable because while the sale of large volumes of logo-covered goods undeniably creates profit, at a certain point, the resulting over-exposure in the minds of consumers takes a toll on sales. Luxury goods buyers do not want what everyone else has because then its not luxury, it is mainstream. As such, rarity might as well be a synonym for luxury in terms of high fashion, at least in terms of demand. Since when is that a novel notion?
Young designer, Prabal Gurung, is starting 2013 in a big way - the cover of the latest issue of Glamour Magazine. Actress Zooey Deschanel graces the mag's February 2013 cover in a PG Resort 2013 frock. I have a feeling this is going to be a huge year for the designer, who we happen to LOVE.
Last March, Israel passed legislation banning unhealthy/underweight models from working and requiring the disclosure of all fashion-related photoshopping. As of Tuesday, the law is in effect, which means that in order for models to appear in Israeli publications, they must meet the body mass index requirement of 18.5. Basically, a model that is 5-feet 8-inches tall should weigh at least 119 pounds. As for the U.S., there is no such law in the works. What we do have is the CFDA’s Health Initiative, which recommends that designers not to hire models under age 16 to walk in shows (among other guidelines), and Vogue adopted a similar plan, in which it vows to only shoot models over age 16. The U.S. efforts have not been entirely successful - Marc Jacobs a member of the CFDA and Vogue have notoriously failed to abide by the rules but maybe 2013 will bring greater awareness in the U.S.
Thursday Friday has managed to get away with this questionable design tactic for the most part because the totes are devoid of any high fashion trademark. Further, the original bags depicted on Thursday Friday's totes largely do not meet the high standards required for trade dress protection. The one notable exception: the Hermes Birkin, which resulted in a lawsuit. As for the Celine Luggage tote, its probably perfectly legal because as I mentioned, trade dress protection is a difficult standard to meet. Put simply, its a type of trademark protection that is derived not from a logo but from the overall appearance of a good itself. The Birkin bag, for instance, is so iconic and noteworthy that when people see it, they automatically associate it with Hermes. So, achieving this level of consumer awareness takes time, and the Celine Luggage Tote arguably isn't there yet. Regardless, what do you think Thursday Friday's take on "it" bags?
French brand that we love, Surface to Air (S2A), took to its blog recently to debut its Future Is Winning tote. The post entitled "Obama v. Surface to Air" reads: "Barack Obama got it, his new slogan for 2012 is: “Winning The Future!” Now, he uses our tote bag “The Future Is Winning” all the time..." While this seems like a pretty obvious joke to us, some are calling out S2A's use of photoshop, and they are calling it fraud. Without getting too technical, fraud is the intentional false representation of a matter of fact for the purpose of gaining a benefit. I think its safe to say that S2A is probably in the clear (legally) since fraud notoriously entails a high standard to prove. BUT, check out more images below and tell us what you think ... fraud or fun?
I think its probably safe to say that Karl doesn't give a sh*t about the industry-wide recommendation that designers and houses use models aged 16 and older for their ad campaigns and runway shows. While Chanel's Spring 2013 ad campaign starring Stella Tennant and 16-year olds Ondria Hardin and Yumi Lambert is technically in line with this standard, Chanel is still coming under fire. Karl shot supermodel Tennant with Hardin, who has been the cause of controversy for walking in Marc Jacobs shows prior to her 16th birthday. Because the new thing in the modeling industry is to not disclose female models ages or lie about their dates of birth, we don't know for sure how old the girls actually are. Since both girls are likely age 16 now, the controversy here stems from how old they were when the ad was shot. See more images and read Karl's thoughts below ...
At the time of the shoot (which was last October), Lagerfeld told Womenswear Daily that the models he chose “don't look 15. [They] look 18 or 19.” Thoughts?
Everyone is really getting into Throwback Thursday, and so, our take is a throwback to collections past. In case you haven't seen one of our favorite design duo, Cushnie et Ochs' Spring 2010 collection, here it is. An early collection in the brand's history, there are still quite a few of their staples here: body cons, cut outs, bra tops and even sexy full length dresses. Also in full effect: the minimalist chic that we have come to love them for.
Last week, we gave you a sneak peak into the controversial Andrej Pejic editorial in this month's issue of Elle Serbia. Now, we have more images and they further influence our prediction that the Victor Victoria spread is set to cause quite a bit of controversy. What Fashionising and other sites are labeling as a "domestica drama," this is pretty clearly the next editorial to have the industry and domestic violence groups speaking out about.
The power and seduction of luxury (and the underlying attractiveness of luxury goods) is no question for those of us who are regular readers of TFL. We seek out the highest quality garments and accessories from the most gifted emerging and established designers. Few of us think anything of a day spent cultivating the newest incarnation of Our Look because we know personal style is everything. Even more importantly, we hold ourselves to a higher standard than most consumers in terms of the distinctive nature of what we purchase and the ethics of what we decide to put on our bodies or hold in our hands (No Forever 21 here!).
Not all shoppers are as lucky and have the same resources available (financial or otherwise). Even fewer understand what fashion, as both a utilitarian aesthetic and as art in its own right, means in the greater schema of the world. As a result of this, combined with a troublingly pervasive belief that every American deserves "luxury" items in their closet at all times, we are seeing a rise in what I like to call “mall couture.” In other words, the mainstreaming of certain higher end brands, rendering them available in mass forms to mass audiences. Brands that immediately come to mind are Coach and Polo, as they are becoming fixtures in malls nationwide, as well in the halls of upper middle class high schools everywhere. It is not uncommon for a fifteen-year-old girl to carry a small Coach wristlet as a rite of passage. Similarly, we see boys of the same age range wearing Polo shirts on their dates with those very girls who bear Coach’s “C”-adorned wristlets. Mothers tightly gripping Michael Kors purses wait at bus stops for their children. This is accessible luxury.
I dare to ask the following question: What happens to luxury in practice and idea when one can easily pick it up at the mall? I am not referencing malls that cater specifically to the high-end shopper like the Gardens Mall in Palm Beach or South Coast Plaza in Orange County. I am referencing your average malls in places like Grand Rapids, Michigan or Syracuse, New York. Part of the lure of luxury items is their limited accessibility, high price tag, and the very fact that not everyone can or is meant to have them. Capitalism clearly dictates the rules for this, whether Middle America wants to believe it or not. With luxury becoming more and more accessible and thus, commonplace, will it be a thing of the distant past? If this dystopian vision becomes a reality, what will happen to the best part of fashion, it’s function as both deeply plastic and metaphoric? Could this be the last moment of fashion as truly interactive art? I certainly hope not.
JULIETTE ARICO is a Ph.D. student and teacher in Global Gender Studies at the University at Buffalo in Buffalo, NY. Her current work, which addresses constructions of the female body in cinema and literature lies at the intersection of critical, queer, and feminist theories. She is a regular contributor to The Monolith, where her weekly column, Fraud or Freud?, addresses issues of sexuality and cinema.
Nicolas Ghesquière has tweeted! After joining Twitter on December 4th, the former Balenciaga creative director finally tweeted today: “Thank you to all of you for such a fantastic welcome!” He included this picture. Since joining, he has also upped who he is following. The list includes: models Liya Kebede, Amber Valetta, Miranda Kerr, and Karen Elson; footwear designer Pierre Hardy (who designs for Balenciaga); fashion critics Cathy Horyn and Suzy Menkes; and an array of fashion editors. More to come ...