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The Official Page of The Fashion Law.

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    Gwen Stefani graces her second Vogue cover this January in ... Saint Laurent! She wears a full look from Hedi Slimane’s Spring 2013 collection (except for the shoea) and she rocks the entire look that opened his debut show as part of the editorial (see below). AND Lara Stone covers Russian Vogue in Saint Laurent in a Slimane-photographed shoot. 

    Despite all of the negative press surrounding the designer's appointment to the French house earlier this year and his subsequent name change, etc., an endorsement by Vogue is as good as it gets. And Russian Vogue isn't too shabby either, considering that the Russian Fashion Pack consists of some of the most stylish women in the world. We'll see if this affects the sales of the collection, which will be available in stores in January. It appears you can no longer pre-order on YSL's site. However, if you simply cannot wait, you can shop some of the accessories and jewelry. You can also add yourself the wait list for womenswear and that new "it" bag on the house's re-vamped website. 




    images courtesy of style.com & vogue

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    An inevitable addition to our Some Thoughts From series: Margherita Maccapani Missoni. The 29-year old newly-wed (see pictures from her amazing wedding) is the accessories designer and heiress to the Missoni fashion house, which was founded by her grandparents in 1953. She is a natural style goddess and the ideal Missoni spokesmodel, as she is almost always decked out in the family wares. Here are MMM's thoughts on the family-run fashion house, turbans and Lake Como. 


    On Missoni: I know I wouldn’t be able to work for any other fashion house or brand. I genuinely think I can do better than anybody else for the family’s fashion house since I was born into and grew up surrounded by their vision, so I don’t need to adapt my tastes to the Missoni aesthetic, because I have integrated it into my own self since I was a child.

    On turbans: I wear a lot of turbans. I really like turbans. They keep the hair away from your face, which is really annoying to me, and at the same time, you look polished. 

    On materialism: Life is a balance between giving and receiving, the objects we possess do not really belong to us, we are just holding on to them for now. 

    On the Villa d'Este in Lake Como: 'This is the best hotel in the world, hands down. I love the old-fashioned feel of it: the piano playing during aperitivo, the waiters who have been there forever, and the dock where you can leave your little boat; it was always full of beautiful old Rivas.'

    On Gucci: I was 12 when I started really wanting stuff from other brands. It was the first year of Tom Ford at Gucci and there were those velvet suits in red or blue.

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    Facebook bought Instagram in April for $1B, and we are seeing bits of the aftermath this week in the form of Instagram's disintegration from Twitter and the photo-taking and sharing site's new "Terms of Use." The updated version of the terms agreement, which will take effect January 16, is not all that different from agreements already in place on other sites. However, because the Internet is the source of constant chaos, the debut of Instagram's terms is causing quite a bit of buzz, and to some extent, it is warranted. 

    People have the right to be upset as this is yet another example of non-user friendly information. The terms are designed to be difficult for the average person to interpret and to be subsequently ignored. The new terms should not be a source of chaos, but at the same time, those who are making light of them are likely the same people who have little understanding of the law and the same people who post those hoax messages on their Facebook pages. So, read a few of my straight-forward clarifications and some of the controversial excerpts below ...


    1. Who owns your photos? Copyright law grants rights to those who take original photographs. Thus, YOU own the rights to the photos you take, and Instagram does not contest this. However, by continuing to use Instagram after January 16, you are granting the company a "non-exclusive, fully paid and royalty-free, worldwide, limited license" which means that you are allowing Instagram to use, modify (delete from/add to), and publicly display your photos on an international scale. Period. 

    2. What about if your photos are "Private?" It doesn't appear to matter that much. The statement claims that "Content not shared publicly ("private") will not be distributed outside the Instagram Services." Since, some "Instagram Services" explicitly include advertising, your private photos may be fair game, as well. So, whether your photos are public or private, by continuing to use Instagram, you are agreeing to allow the company to use your photos for advertising purposes, over which you are not entitled to notice or compensation of any kind.

    3. What if you delete your Instagram after January 16?  Based on the language of the statement, users that continue to upload photos after January 16, 2013 and subsequently delete their accounts, appear to grant Instagram an irrevocable right to sell those images. So, keep that in mind.

    4. What is Instagram going to use your photos for? Good question! It's not exactly clear, but it will certainly be commercial in nature. Instagram is asking you to consent to unspecified future commercial use of your photos as "the manner, mode and extent of such advertising and promotions are subject to change without specific notice to you."

    5. What are your options: There is no way to opt out of the Instagram requirements. I repeat. There is no way to opt out of the Instagram requirements. So, you can choose to continue using Instagram or delete your account. No word on whether the Terms of Use are retroactive but it wouldn't be thaaaat surprising if they are, and thus, apply to photos taken before January 16th, but this will only apply, if at all, to users who continue to use Instagram after January 16. 

    • "To help us deliver interesting paid or sponsored content or promotions, you agree that a business or other entity may pay us to display your username, likeness, photos (along with any associated metadata), and/or actions you take, in connection with paid or sponsored content or promotions, without any compensation to you." 
    • "If you are under the age of eighteen (18), or under any other applicable age of majority, you represent that at least one of your parents or legal guardians has also agreed to this provision (and the use of your name, likeness, username, and/or photos (along with any associated metadata) on your behalf."
    • "You acknowledge that we may not always identify paid services, sponsored content, or commercial communications as such."

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    And another one bites the dust. For the second time this month, the British Advertising Standards Authority is coming down on American Apparel for its ad campaigns. The ad currently at issue  appeared on the back of Vice magazine, has been banned following two complaints that American Apparel is "sexualizing a child" via the ad. American Apparel challenged the complaints, which accused the ad of being “offensive and irresponsible." American Apparel's response: There is “nothing to suggest anything overtly sexual or inappropriate was being portrayed.” Oh and the model is 23 years old. The brand, which is hardly unaccustomed to controversy, also stated that the ad appeared in a publication that is targeted at an adult audience, and the ad features products designed to be sold to adults. Thoughts?

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    American Apparel may be on the outs with the British Advertising Standards Authority, but Marc Jacobs is in the clear. The designer, who has become quite notorious for his use of underaged models despite the existence of guidelines adopted by Vogue and the CFDA, came under fire last year with the British ASA. One of Jacobs' ads for his namesake label, starring then-17-year old, Dakota Fanning, for Marc Jacobs' Lola perfume, was banned by the ASA. The Advertising Authority was not too find of the placement of a perfume bottle in that ad. However, Jacobs' Spring 2013 ad campaign appears to be perfectly acceptable. The Juergen Teller-shot campaign stars 18-year old model, Ruby Jean Wilson, and is far from scandalous. Now, we will have to wait and see what models hit the runway for Jacobs in February. 



    images courtesy of tfs

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    Instagram's co-founder Kevin Systrom has posted an update regarding the new Terms of Use statement the company released on Monday. Tonight's post calls into question a significant porition of the what the new Terms of Use statement was proposing. One very interesting excerpt from Systrom's post (which may be found in its unfortunate entirety here): "Our intention in updating the terms was to communicate that we’d like to experiment with innovative advertising that feels appropriate on Instagram. Instead it was interpreted by many that we were going to sell your photos to others without any compensation. This is not true and it is our mistake that this language is confusing. To be clear: it is not our intention to sell your photos."

    Actually, the language was not confusing! The Terms explicitly state that Instagram would be granted a "non-exclusive, fully paid and royalty-free, worldwide, limited license" over all photos. That amounts to the right to use ("modify, delete from, add to, and publicly display") said photos for free without compensating the users.  You also said: "You agree that a business or other entity may pay [Instagram] to display your username, likeness, photos (along with any associated metadata), and/or actions you take, in connection with paid or sponsored content or promotions, without any compensation to you." It's really not that confusing.


    So, it sounds like Systrom is essentially back-tracking and trying to convince you that the language was confusing, as opposed to saying "Ok. So, this is a bad idea." Then, in an attempt to "clear up confusion," Instagram's statement says it wants to "experiment with innovative advertising that feels appropriate on Instagram," and then provides you with a hypothetical business scenario. First of all, what the hell does "experiment with innovative advertising that feels appropriate on Instagram" even mean? Second, this isn't a law school exam. You can keep the hypos to yourself. Conclusion: Facebook is super afraid that we are all going to quit Instagram and that $1B they just paid for it would be a big loss. 

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    Chroma Makeup studio, the company that originally spoke out against the Kardashians for their Khroma makeup collection, has filed suit against the sisters and their licensing company. Co-owner Michael Rey has filed a trademark infringement suit (via counsel) in the Central District of California's Western Division court in Los Angeles for trademark infringement. Since late October, Michael Rey, the co-owner of Beverly Hills-based Chroma Makeup, has been threatening to bring a suit stemming from allegations that the Kardashians' collection is creating consumer confusion and tarnishing his brand's image.


    While Rey claims that this company has been using the Chroma trademark for 12 years, the trademark does not appear to be federally registered (and does not even have a pending application). As such, Chroma has an up-hill battle in defeating the Kardashians unless its owners can show that the mark has acquired a secondary meaning in the market place in its association with particular goods and services or that the mark is inherently distinctive. Rey's suit comes just weeks after Boldface Licensing and Branding (the girls' licensing company) filed suit in the U.S. District Court Central District of California's Western Division seeking a declaratory judgment so they can officially use the name without an legal ramifications. 

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    Haris Seoudy is a brand new face in the modeling industry, but with such a strong look, its only a matter of time before this 18-year old half English, half Egyptian model is starring in Givenchy campaigns. You may have seen him in editorials for Hypebeast, Ponystep, Phoenix and Vice Magazines (just to name a few), Common Affairs’ Spring 2013 lookbook, the latest G-Star Raw campaign and a recent F.Tape profile. He has been shooting with some of our favorite photogs lately, and so, we sat down with him to talk branding, modeling, and why he wants to work with Stone Island. 


    The Fashion Law – Business today is so much about branding do you feel like models are brands? 

    Haris Seoudy – I feel that the way some models look can suit a particular brand and the image that the designer is going for. I think my "brand" can be described as tough, strong and bad boy looking, probably because of my very short hair, which not a lot of other male models have.

    The Fashion Law – Among female models, there is always a lot of controversy regarding age, and the girls being so young and working too many hours. Have you noticed this among male models?

    Haris Seoudy – I haven't really noticed this with male models. I haven't seen any male models that are that young.

    The Fashion Law – You’ve been modeling for less than a year. How has it been so far? 

    Haris Seoudy – Its been a great experience so far! I've really enjoyed the traveling and meeting loads of different new people, too. Starting the casting process was a bit shaky but I feel the more castings that I go to the better I get.


    The Fashion Law – Your main agency is Models 1, and that's not exclusive because you have other agencies, right? 

    Haris Seoudy – I've been with Models 1 for about six months now, and I signed with an agency in Milan called Why Not Models two months ago, which is great!

    The Fashion Law – Most people probably don’t know this but you applied on the Models 1 website and that’s how you were “discovered.”

    Haris Seoudy – Yes. I was in a coffee shop with my mum, and someone who worked at the agency told me to apply online. So, I sent in my passport photo and some of my Facebook pictures with my friends cropped out that night.

    The Fashion Law – You're so new but do you have a favorite modeling experience so far and is there a particular designer or design house that you absolutely want to work? 

    Haris Seoudy – Definitely shooting for G-Star Raw in Amsterdam this past October. The people there were lovely, and they really looked after me. I would love to shoot a Stone Island campaign simply because I love their coats and I think my look could suit their branding.



    The Fashion Law – I know you are probably traveling constantly, but when you're not, how do you spend your free time ?

    Haris Seoudy – I live in North London and when I have some free time I like to go to gym and run and keep fit. I also catch up with my friends.

    The Fashion Law – You just turned 18 (Happy belated Birthday!) and you are in college right now. What are you studying? 

    Haris Seoudy – Thank you! I'm doing my second year of A-Levels at Woodhouse College (in North London), which are Biology, Economics and Physical Education. After this year I plan to take a gap year and try modelling full time before I go to university. 

    The Fashion Law – What are you obsessed with right now? 

    Haris Seoudy – House music and a TV series on BBC called Alan Sugar's Young Apprentice!

    images courtesy of sylvain homo, why not model mgmt & euan danks

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    The U.S. Department of Labor introduced a handbook to help businesses combat child labor and forced labor in their global supply chains. Hear that fast fashion retailers? The department's Bureau of International Labor Affairs released the report, entitled, “Reducing Child Labor and Forced Labor: A Toolkit for Responsible Businesses,” last week.  It is the first of its kind, and is being released on the heels of the Department of Labor's investigation of Forever 21 and its supply chain. Coincidence? We don't think so. 
    However, what the report will actually accomplish is questionable. It urges businesses to engage stakeholders and partners, assess risks and impacts, develop a code of conduct, monitor compliance, and remediate violations, etc. The report also highlights key nation where modern-day slavery and unsafe working conditions are commonplace: China, India, Argentina, Jordan, Malaysia and Thailand. These countries are known to use child and/or forced labor in apparel manufacturing. Fast fashion retailers are extremely unlikely to refrain from using suppliers that practice unethical labor. So, consumers, please, please consider this when you're shopping, and don't support retailers that support child labor and other irresponsible labor practices. 

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    Long time friend and muse of Givenchy creative director Riccardo Tisci, Mariacarla Boscono, stars in the latest Givenchy ad campaign. She has been a Givenchy constant almost consecutively since 2004, with the most recent exception being when Gisele took Mariacarla's place in the Spring 2012 ad campaign. However, she's back for the Spring 2013 ad campaign and this may mean something wonderful: the Italian design house is distancing itself from its street wear-emphasis in favor of a return to old. As you likely already know, it is not uncommon to see Tisci's friends in his ad campaigns for the design house, and so, the Spring campaign, shot by Mert & Marcus, is hardly a surprise. Front and center are Kate Moss, Marina Abramovic, Francisco Peralta, Mariacarla and her baby Marialucas, Jose Maria Manzanares and Jared Buckhiester. Sadly, there is one person missing: Lea T. Maybe next season! More images to come as they are released...



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    One editorial in the Autumn/Winer 2012 edition of EXIT Magazine caught my eye. Army of Me, which was shot by Aitken Jolly, features model Patricia Van Der Vliet toting a gun. With one of the deadliest shootings in America occurring just days ago, violence-themed editorials seem a bit distasteful. Yet, they are quite common place. Publications, such as Vogue (which was covered by Rihanna, who publicly dalliances with a man who nearly killed her), W Magazine (with its story on photographer Lindsay McCrum's book Chicks With Guns), 12 Magazine's notorious Victims of Beauty spread, and ninety-nine percent of Tyler Shields' work, have consisted of pieces with violent undertones. However, while these editors are to blame for continuing the cycle of glamorizing violence, they are not entirely in the wrong for responding to what we as a society find interesting or amusing or artistic. 

    image courtesy of exit magazine

    Regardless of the timing of EXIT's publication in relation to the Connecticut elementary school shooting, the real issue is violence-themed fashion spreads. Since when is makeup sexier on a beaten face or a dress more beautiful on a mangled body? When did guns and other depictions of violence become fashionable? While I understand the argument of establishing a contrast between beauty and ugliness, it seems that quite often guns are mere props and that strangulation is as basic a pose as any other. Thus, in the U.S. and abroad, the problem appears to run much deeper than gun control laws. We have glamorized violence, and as long as violence is still in vogue (in terms of art and entertainment), we will likely continue to encounter tragedies of the kind we experienced last week. 

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  • 12/20/12--08:00: The Gossip Girl Effect
  • After six seasons, Blair and Serena have bid adieu. In the wake of the buzz surrounding this week's finale, we cannot help but think of the impact this television show has had on fashion and emerging designers, in particular. Episode after episode, Gossip Girl served as a living, moving, issue of Vogue. But, unlike most fashion spreads, Gossip Girl stylist/genius, Eric Daman paid special attention to emerging designers and pieces Made in NYC. In fact, some of our favorite young brands, such as Cushnie et Ochs, Gemma Redux, Bibhu Mohapatra, Prabal Gurung, ARI DEIN, Timo Weiland and Christian Cota (among others), are Gossip Girl favorites, as well (see below). 


    A designer having his or her pieces featured on Gossip Girl speaks volumes about that brand brand, much like it does when Michelle Obama wears a certain designer. For many brands, placement on this particular show, one known for its utter fashionability, has a real effect. Gemma Redux jewelry, for instance, can be seen in episodes stretching the entire six seasons. Rachel Dooley, the founder of Gemma Redux, told TFL that the exposure from the show helped put Gemma Redux on the map. She added: "Gossip Girl allowed fashion to essentially play a character in the show and to help all the characters tell their story in an eclectic, colorful way." In this way, Gossip Girl (whether you watched it or not) has played an important role in American fashion. As Arielle Shaprio, of ARI DEIN, who frequently dressed Blair Waldorf through the years says: "The end of an era. Thanks for the memories and letting us dress B." See some of our favorite designers on Gossip Girl below ...

    from left: Bibhu Mohapatra, Christian Cota & Vena Cava shorts

    from left: Prabal Gurung for ICB, Gemma Redux necklace & Kaelen coat

    from left: Timo Weiland top, SUNO pants & Proenza Schouler coat

    from left: Kaufman Franco dress, Nanette Lepore coat & Devi Kroell clutch

    from left: Cushnie et Ochs skirt, Dannijo necklace & Organic by John Patrick shorts

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    Givenchy announced today that it won’t show a Spring 2013 Couture collection in January. Style.com says it is likely because "the brand’s plate is presumably full this year, with Riccardo Tisci co-hosting the Met Gala in May." A spokesperson for Givenchy told WWD that the house “continues to invest in its couture atelier and does not rule out couture presentations in the future.”

    However, its appears that the house may be phasing out couture in a major way. As WWD reports, "Givenchy and Tisci have been moving toward a more personalized approach to couture in recent years," but not showing anything? And dressing Madonna for the Superbowl half-time show, does NOT count because nothing could be more irrelevant than that. With couture being Tisci's true genius and the house moving closer and closer to becoming a glorified street wear brand (can you say Givenchy for H&M), I'm concerned. It is this Kanye Effect truly coming into fruition? 


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    Kate Spade New York filed a complaint on Wednesday in the U.S. District Court for the Southern District of New York seeking a declaratory judgement that its new brand, Kate Spade Saturday, doesn’t infringe the trademark of existing brand, Saturdays Surf NYC. WE reported the name/store location similarity and predicted this suit about earlier this month. Saturdays Surf opened its doors in Soho, NY in August 2009. However, according to Kate Spade's complaint, the Saturday name has been in the works at Kate Spade since 2009, “with no knowledge whatsoever of the Saturday’s Surf NYC name.” 


    The complaint further states that in 2010, Kate Spade New York applied to register the trademark. We told you that the company filed trademark applications in February 2012 for the name Kate Spade Saturday for everything from home goods (dishes, vases, etc.); cosmetics; stationary; jewelry; bags/purses; to mail order services of clothing. Saturdays, which has been stocked in their own stores and in J. Crew, filed applications in April 2011 for the name Saturdays Surf NYC in four classes: clothing; sunglasses; handbags; accessories (including clothing accessories, personal grooming products, coffee, and artwork); and for the online and retail services related to the sale of such goods. They claim to have been selling such goods as early as August 2009. They also have an application pending for their logo in these same classes of goods and services.

    As the launch of Kate Spade Saturday approaches (its set for this Spring), we are learning more and more about this all new brand. Yet, as we demonstrated above, this "new" brand may not be so novel. Now, Racked is reporting that the design aesthetic isn't all that new, either. According to Racked, "from the looks of it, the offerings are heavy on classic silhouettes in fashion-forward prints, pops of color, shrunken blazers—in fact, if the model were wearing orangey-red lipstick, we'd say it looked a lot like J.Crew." More to come ...


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  • 12/20/12--12:02: From Us to You ...

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    While consumers were shopping on Cyber Monday, the U.S. Immigration and Customs Enforcement (ICE) was working. As part of Project Cyber Monday, which is in its third year of operation, ICE identifies and shuts down the websites selling counterfeit goods. This November, ICE seized 130 websites hawking illegal counterfeit items, 89 of which were selling a wide range of counterfeit designer products, including Gucci, Louis Vuitton and Christian Louboutin. ICE's National Intellectual Property Rights Coordination Center and Homeland Security Investigations partnered with EUROPOL, the European Union’s law enforcement agency, to take down an additional 31 websites with European domain names. Popular items: Counterfeit Hermes purses, Christian Louboutin shoes and Louis Vuitton accessories.




    As part of the two-year old "Operation in Our Sites," ICE obtained court orders to shut the websites down after investigators purchased items from the websites and verified that the items were knock-offs. Along with the website seizures ICE has works with PayPal to attempt to seize funds associated with the websites selling the counterfeit goods. With intellectual property theft costing the U.S. an estimated $200 billion to $250 billion annually, these efforts, in addition to consistent consumer education about the downsides about counterfeits, are 

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    image courtesy of galore

    We learned a few things about one of our favorite unconventional models this week and so, we are sharing them with you. Turns out, Andrej Pejic's real passion is not hitting the runway. The blonde stunner, who describes himself as humble, actually loves politics. However, Pejic who started modeling exclusively for menswear brands at age 16, says he still gets nervous before runway shows. As for his biggest inspiration, that's Italian designer, Donatella Versace, and his favorite designer: the late Alexander McQueen. 

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    The Native American trend does not seem to be going away. Sure, Victoria's Secret apologized for Karlie Kloss' Native American-inspired runway show costume, and around the same time, music group, No Doubt, pulled their "Looking Hot" video, which featured a cowboys and indians theme. Before that, the Gap and designer Mark McNairy caused controversy with their collaborative Manifest Destiny t-shirt. I would predict that rapper Wiz Khalifa's latest video, in which he sports a Native American-looking headdress is the next to come under fire, but since his music video debuted in October, Khalifa may be in the clear. So, what did Victoria's Secret, the Gap and No Doubt do wrong, and what did Khalifa do right? I don't see the big difference between hitting the runway in a headdress and speeding through your music video in a Porsche wearing a headdress. Maybe Khalifa just got lucky.  

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    Just in case you've missed some of TFL's big stories with last minute holiday prep, here's a review just for you!

    Givenchy Won't Show Couture in January:  Heartbreaking news for Givenchy Couture fans, Tisci has announced the house will not show a Couture line this year ... Is Givenchy officially becoming a luxury street wear brand?

    Instagram's New Terms Put SIMPLY and Update: Instagram Won't Sell Your Photos?:  Not a fan of reading complicated legal terms updates?  You're in luck because we do, and we've simplified the Instagram's terms just for you!

    Chroma Files Suit Against the Kardashians: Michael Rey, co-owner of Chroma Makeup, has finally brought a lawsuit against the sisters' makeup line.  Is this a new reality show in the making? Keeping up with the Kardashians in the Kourtroom.

    Saturdays vs. Saturday Update: After TFL broke the story weeks ago about the potential brand infringement with the Saturday name,  Kate Spade has filed a complaint in the Southern District of New York seeking a judgment that their new brand Kate Spade Saturday, does not infringe on Saturday's Surf NYC.  Will this be cleared up before the Spring launch of the Kate Spade brand?

    The Fashion Law Exclusive: Haris Seoudy: It's no secret that here at The Fashion Law we have a penchant for male models, and Haris Seoudy is our favorite at the moment.  Read more about Haris here, he may very well be the next "it" model.


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    Our Saturday style feature: Rushka Bergman is a contributing editor for L'Uomo Vogue and Vogue Italia and acted as stylist to the late Michael Jackson. The Serbian-born and New York-based Bergman  favors the Christophe Decarnin for Balmain, aesthetic, with hints of Kris Van Assche for Christian Dior, John Galliano, Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy and Giuseppe Zanotti. She is the ultimate in Parisian, rocker-chic ...










    images courtesy of tfl, tfs and zimbio

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